Pure Freedom: The Ha Giang Loop (3-Night Guide)
- Andrei B
- Sep 9, 2023
- 7 min read
Updated: Sep 11, 2023
A complete guide to the world's best ride - Ha Giang, Vietnam.
Motorcycling through the Vietnamese mountains is as close to pure freedom as you can get. Nothing but your bike, your bag, a few new friends and one insane view after another on the open mountain road. It's genuinely one of my favourite places on earth.
But just because you can do it however you want, doesn't mean there isn't a best way to do it.
After a couple times doing the drive myself, I’ve perfected a 3 Night Itinerary. One that's logistically comfortable, but covers all the best attractions, viewpoints, home stays, and some fun nights.
Here's what we'll cover:
Where to Stay / Rent Motorbike
What to See / Do
What to Pack
At a Glance
Night 0
Night-bus (sleeper bus) from Hanoi >> Ha Giang, and sleep at Bong Hostel
Day 1
Ha Giang >> Yen Minh (viewpoints, local coffee, and hike to a cave)
Night 1
Crash in Yen Minh (Bong Bang Homestay), while eating a family dinner and drinking “happy water” with your new friends
Day 2
The unbelievable drive from Yen Minh to Meo Vac
Night 2
Karaoke, happy water, bonfires and a great time at ClayHouse (or one of the other home-stays within the complex)
Day 3
Drive down to the river and take the riverboat cruise through the Avatar-looking mountains in Sông Nho Quế. Then, hit the road to Du Gia.
Night 3
Catch an unbelievable sunset, before staying at one of the finer stays of the loop (either Panorama, Stream Lodge or Coffee View Homestay)
Day 4
Hop into a waterfall, before making the last-stretch drive to Ha Giang and grabbing your evening bus back to Hanoi.
Getting to Ha Giang
From Hanoi, you’ll be taking a public sleeper-bus to Ha Giang. These usually depart at around 9-10 pm and take a few hours. I always grabbed mine from the lobby of Central Backpackers Hostel because they take you from the hostel to the main bus station in their own shuttle. Side Note: I personally don't recommend the Ha Giang TOUR itself. I find the tours take away the real charm of the Loop - the freedom of riding - be it solo or with your crew of new friends. Stopping when you want to, doing what you want to. Not to mention queueing for everything.
Night 0 (Ha Giang)
You’ll arrive at 2-3am in Ha Giang, just in time to grab some shut-eye before a long day tomorrow. I recommend Bong Backpackers & Bikes, their owner and staff are really friendly and they have some of the best bikes in Ha Giang. The lobby is also a good spot to meet other Loopers.
Day 1: Ha Giang ↣ Yen Minh
Wake up early and rent your bike / grab breakfast (7:30-8am). Highly recommend shin pads (you definitely see some cement burn at hostels across Vietnam) as well as a nice big bottle of water. There’s a perfect place for it to attach to the bike so it’s not a bother.
That feeling of strapping your bag to the bike and clipping on that helmet strap still gives me nostalgia to this day.
Most people take off around the same time (8-9am) so you’ll already have some road-mates. Some of them you met on the bus last night, others during breakfast or when renting your bike. Another reason I liked Bong. When it's time to hit the road, that feeling of strapping your bag to the bike and clipping on that helmet strap still gives me nostalgia to this day.
Time to hit the road.
According to Google Maps, the journey from Ha Giang to Yen Minh is 101 km and approx. 3 hours. 🚨DISCLAIMER: It'll take WAY more! 🚨 Between viewpoints, lunch, coffee, 'someone took a wrong turn', you’ll easily be on the road until sunset.
Some notable attractions along the way:
Quan Ba Heaven Gate (viewpoint)
Cafe Cong Troi, delicious coffee overlooking a striking valley across from Heaven Gate
A few clicks down the road, change it up by making the hike up to Lung Khuy cave! Worth the views and the experience.
Fairy Bosom viewpoint
Yen Minh (Night 1):
You’ll want to stay at one of either Bong Bang or Bong Bang 2 Homestay's (obviously, same company lol). A tour stays at Bong Bang so it tends to be lively and it’s cobblestone courtyard turns into a nice beer and chatter session at night. It also sits across the street from Milk Milk which is the “honorable mention” homestay in Yen Minh, equipped with its own courtyard, pool table and lively atmosphere. Bong Bang 2 on the other hand, is a 5 minute walk (or 1 minute bike) down the road, but arguably has the best building, with a river and bridges through it’s yard and a nice view of the hills in the back. They also have amazing smoothies. Can’t go wrong either way.
Day 2: Yen Minh ↣ Meo Vac
You’ll want to start early, today sports some of the craziest view of the whole trip. Grab breakfast (and a smoothie) and aim to hit the road before or around 9am. This drive isn't as much "viewpoints" as just one continuous spectacle... you can't miss it! If anything, try your best to soak it all in while still keeping your bike on the road 😂
🔥PRO-TIP: Some people choose to do the detour North to the “Northern-most point of Vietnam”, and climb atop the Lung Cu flag tower. Honestly, having done it, I’m not sure it’s worth the detour. The tower isn't that big and the view is sub-par compared to what you’ve been seeing. It’s also a big detour, and takes away from time on the main road - which is stunning today. You don’t want to rush through the last viewpoints because you’re racing against sunset. I’d nix the flag pole!
Night 2: Meo Vac
Hands down the place to stay in Meo Vac is the Clay House complex. This is where the party is, where the tours stop, and where the best homestay's live. If you can't get a bed at ClayHouse itself, Little Yen's or Amazing Meo Vac are in the same complex and just as good.
Tonight you'll be partying with all the other loopers; singing karaoke, drinking happy water and having a time. I took zero photos (busy having a TIME), but I did get some videos of the wildness with the locals and fellow bikers, which made it into my Ha Giang Loop reel.
Day 3: Meo Vac ↣ Du Gia
After breakfast, take the steep, winding road down to Song Nho Que. Here, you'll find the river cruise that takes you through a scene STRAIGHT out of Avatar. An absolute must-see.
When that excursion is wrapped up, you'll hit the road proper: heading for Du Gia. Again, this drive says 3 hours on Google Maps but will take you all day. Lather up the sunscreen!
Night 3: Du Gia
Du Gia has some of the best accommodation! I recommend: Du Gia Stream Lodge (most high end but still about $15 / night), Du Gia Panorama or Du Gia Coffee View Homestay.
Before you wind down (or turn up..? 🤙🏽), check out the sunset!! This is the best one you'll see on the loop.
Day 4: Waterfall & Return to Ha Giang
The highlight of Day 4 is finally going for a swim after days on the road. The bumpy ride into Tham Luong Waterfall is rewarded with a cool, hidden watering hole in the middle of the valley. There are two places to jump from, which also makes for a dose of adrenaline and an epic photo. Bring snacks and a beer to get the full experience: picnicking in the Vietnamese mountains and watching loopers take turns launching off the waterfall.
From here, you'll make the journey back to Ha Giang. LOOP COMPLETE!
Your bus back to Hanoi will pick you up from Bong Hostel tonight - you can book it directly from the lobby.
What to Pack?
You can think of the loop as a "hike", in the sense that the weather changes (depending on your altitude) and light rain can appear (and disappear) at any time. With that in mind, think layers and a waterproof shell. Also like a hike, less is more!
Here's my packing guide for the Ha Giang Loop:
Clothes:
long sleeve base layer or shirt
short sleeve t-shirt (preferably dry-fit)
long pants (something comfy, track pants or joggers)
WATERPROOF SHELL JACKET (stay dry without being hot, this one might be the most important)
1 sweater (if you tend to run cold, it's pretty brisk at the tops of the mountains)
shorts (ideally with a zipper pocket so you can keep your phone / cash on you without worrying it'll fall out)
swim suit
underwear / socks (there are showers at most home stays, though people don't always bother lol)
sneakers (really useful when riding / hiking)
sandals (very clutch at night and in the morning)
sunglasses (🔑!!!)
hat (if you care about how your hair looks, remember you'll be riding with a helmet then stopping to take pics)
Other:
small backpack (PRO-TIP: leave your big bag in Hanoi if you can, and bring a smaller pack for the loop. It's tough to strap your big pack onto the bikes, not to mention annoying to carry around)
fanny pack (optional but super useful for quick access on the bike)
medications & toiletries
sunscreen and bug spray 🔑
action camera or 360 camera (huge advantage!! Strapping a GoPro to your helmet, chest, or bike helps you get infinitely more good footage. It's tough - and dangerous - to drive and film with your phone). I recommend the GoPro MAX or Insta360 x3 (which I personally use)
chest mount, helmet mount, or backpack mount for your camera
cash
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"We shall not cease from exploration, and the end of all our exploration will be to arrive where we started and know the place for the first time" - T.S. Eliot
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